[fisher]

When I got my sounder I was in a rush to get it installed, and I forgot to sand the plastic before applying the silicon - it eventually gave away on the weekend. I've taken the opportunity to move the transducer from near the foot wells to now have it under the seat area - an area where it is least likely to get knocked by anything put in the front hatch. Is there an area where the transducer should or should not be installed?
Anyway, my main question relates to this. When we have 2 yaks on the car, one travels upside down, meaning that the transducer is hanging from the bottom of the yak. I figure that over time this will lead to stress of the silicon which will eventually fail (especially if it gets hot??). Are there any steps I can take to further secure the transducer so it doesn't matter if it travels upside down?

thanks

 

[RedPhoenix]

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

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[Dodge]

Anyway, my main question relates to this. When we have 2 yaks on the car, one travels upside down, meaning that the transducer is hanging from the bottom of the yak. I figure that over time this will lead to stress of the silicon which will eventually fail (especially if it gets hot??). Are there any steps I can take to further secure the transducer so it doesn't matter if it travels upside down?

thanks

My yak lives in the sun under shadecloth, and always transport upside down on van with no problems after an early failure.

Second time instal, was heavy sanding of the hull, and light sand the trannie, silicone under and also a good silicone buttress either side of trannie, and I think most important let it cure a week plus, before moving around.

The temps inside my hull would rise to 40C+ [guess] and no problem after 3 months; first instal only lasted 6 weeks because I didnt sand the hull severely.

Initially I strapped the transducer with duct tape, but removed after a month as pointless

 

[Davey G]

i had the same problem with my first 'silicone' installation,

however I changed to bedding the transducer in sikaflex (similar consistency to silicone) and find that it gives a much better 'stick' than silicone and does not peel off so readily (and can be peeled clean off if required)

its sold at marine shops

 

[Crikey]

Hi Guys,

Given the option I would go for a water well install.

Using a dry install if the bond is 100% then it should be a bitch to remove the transducer at some time in the future.

If the bond isnt 100% the transducer falling off could spoil your day at some stage.

I was also concerned that with a bonded transducer not only are you potentially introducing another 2 interfaces for the signal to traverse you are also introducing a 3rd medium that the signal is passing through.

My original install was fixing the transducer in place using the mouniting bracket on an internal post with Vaseline as the "couplant" it worked OK but there were a couple of times things moved and an adjustment was necessary to get the FF working again.

My move to a well install was driven by the need to swap my FF between yaks, haven't looked back since then.

 

[fisher]

Pool noodle, cut to fit over the transducer, and glued down

ahhh, another use for the old pool noodle. Now that you have given me the idea I might cut a length to jam between the transducer and the underside of the top of the hull area (does that make sense :?: :roll: )

Thanks for the ideas everyone.