[royourboat]

I've decided to buy or make some rod leashes now that I am going to go offshore.

In general, I hate them or at least I hate the el cheapo coil ones with clip for attaching to the deck and velcro for going around the rod infront of the reel. On a spin reel, the coil will regularly collide with the rotor. Not sure if there is a simple solution for this?

I have considered making quick release ones, like using PFD buckles/clips which only require 1 hand to release. However thats probably not advisable. What is ideal, is a rod leash that is permanently on and of no hindrance regardless of reel type. Has anyone designed this or bought one there ultra satisfied in?

Cheers

 

[royourboat]

*they're

 

[Plasman]

I use the clip/Velcro ones you are talking about but do the Velcro up tight on the but section of the rod. That way it's out the way of your reel which is tried and tested on my kids. I can't pull if off either.

 

[Dodge]

Mate I am one who loathes all the coiled tether contraptions that have been shown on the forum [tried and also made some] and have instead used another suggestion from the forum some years ago.

Just 1 meter of light cord from Bunnings with a loop at each end, reckon the cord is about 2mm diameter and has a breaking strain about 150lbs, length is important so you can move the rod anywhere on the yak when fishing

Sounds like it would be clutter on board, but in practice when trolling in lays in the water overboard with one loop onto the rod and the other end attached to the yak being the only sections on board, it is attached as soon I get on the yak, and remains on at until the day is finished.

The cord is lassooed onto the rod on the reel seat behind the reel so when the rod is being held the tether is under your hand and will not catch spinning handles or bail.

To capture the rod, put fingers through the loop, then grab and pull the cord back through the loop, and the butt inserts in the second loop you have created, my loop is big enough so the attachment is all doubled cord when pulled closed .... before attaching the rod feed the cord through any tie point on the yak and feed the whole cord through a loop .... might add paddle is tethered the same way but much heavier cord.

To date have recovered rods overboard on 2 occasions, the drag will still operate underwater should it go over from a quick fish strike so see no value in having bungee in the system.

Couple of dollars will get you enough cord to make a trial tether.

Only have one picture of the tether in place while trolling, the rod on the right the tether is overboard as described and looks like I haven't worried about the on at left

 

[Guest]

+1 for what dodge says. I use straight cordage. I bowline around the reel foot, and have a stainless clip on the other end to attach to padeyes on the yak. That way I can move the rod around the yak as I want and still have it tethered.

 

[Barrabundy]

I have seen people with their leashes secured to the rod similar to Dodge's description but with the cord cable tied down along the butt, away from the reel. This makes it more of a permanent attachment but would probably keep the leash away from the moving parts on your reel. How successfully this works might be dependant on the length of your rod butt and the type of rod holder you use.

I don't use anything that would suit what you're after.

 

[eagle4031]

Good advice Dodge
I hate the ones i use -i am going to try your way

 

[Guest]

http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=60389&p=633726&hilit=rod+leash+feedback#p633726

 

[royourboat]

Excellent. Exceeeeellent. *evil grin*

 

[Dodge]

+1 for what dodge says. I use straight cordage. I bowline around the reel foot,

Since seeing the nezevic comment quoted above, decided to try out by altering my cord at the rod end, removed the loop and substituted with a hitch on the reel seat instead.

One trip and am now converted to the hitch which proved to be far superior, only seconds to tie, or untie at outing end and far more secure than my original loop method, but will persist with a loop at the other end of the tether to connect to the yak.

However didn't use bowline but just circled the seat twice than applied 2 x half hitches to the standing cord..... thanks for the idea Jon.

 

[Guest]

Glad you liked it Dodge. I moved it around a bit till I came to that spot. Found it interferes less with everything from there.

 

[Dodge]

Glad you liked it Dodge. I moved it around a bit till I came to that spot. Found it interferes less with everything from there.

Have always used the same spot but not with a hitch, which is a marked improvement.

 

[Guest]

http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=60389&p=633726&hilit=rod+leash+feedback#p633726

I copied this idea but I'm using velcro straps off ebay. Cost $1 for a pack of 6. The velcro holds tight but the leash is easily detached if you want to. I leave the velcro on permanently because it doubles as a rod strap when you store a 2 piece rod.