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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Guys,

Great website, wish i found it months ago.
I'm sure you guys must be sick & tired of being asked the same questions about which kayaks to buy, but i have to ask.

I have been doing land based game fishing for years now and every year the fish just seems to get thinner and further from the rocks, so im in the market for a good kayak, so i can go further out and chase 'em pelagics.

Im 185cm, 80kg. I'll want to use the kayak for gamefishing offshore, around islands, estuary... (live baiting/trolling, spinning) mainly for tuna, kings, snapper and if im ever so lucky a marlin.
I'll have 2-3 rods with me, enough gear to get me through the day and I would need a live bait well. Obviously i would like to rig it out like some of the one iv'e seen with electronics, downrigger...

I have had a look at all kayaks but it's so confusing. The mirage drive system does catch my attention though for hands free fishing, but im not sure how they will go in he ocean & rough waters.

My price range would be $2000 but if i think its worth while to spend a bit more i will.

So could someone with similar fishing give me advice on some kayaks, it would be much appreciated.
Also, does anyone know of any near by kayak shops in the newcastle NSW area. Maybe i could go and test a few.

Regards
JJ
 

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Giday JJ, welcome to the family.
I have similar aspirations of going offshore chasing pelagics, mackeral cobia, kingfish, snapper etc. I would recomend to anyone contemplating this style to have had plenty of practice in other boats, and in their kayak before venturing out offshore. As you probably well know JJ big fish are remarkably powerful, weather off the stones or a boat, out of a kayak just makes things just a little more interesting. Fitness is also a big issue knowing that you can paddle your way out of almost any situation you find yourself in.
But all that taken into account, i have a viking predator. It is my experience that not all boats are designed for offshore work, but that the design of the predator is similar to that of a sea kayak, with enough rocker through the length, the 4.7m length gives me the speed i want, on my gps unit i have had readings of up to 8km per hour at a good paddling pace, its stable enough to climb in and out of and move around on without the feeling of falling off and the storage under the front hatch and the rear well is plenty to store all my gear and any fish i catch.
i have mine set up with fishfinder, anchor, bulkheads, gps, paddle holders and 6x rodholders, i have also got a detachable bag containing my epirb, v sheet and a couple of other bits and pieces, that attachs to the back of my life jacket, so it comes with me if i fell out.
I will be fishing 2x 15 kg outfits for trolling and livebaiting, and have my 6kg outfit for softplastics and catching live bait.
I have it all ready now, just have to wait for the weater to play the game.
have a look under rigged kayaks at some of the boats there, my predator is ther as well.
hope this all helps
if you want a Viking kayak have a look at their website http://www.vikingkayak.com.au

Regards
Alex :D
 

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JJ, mate any of the bluewater SOTs will do what you want them to do. Have a suss at the OK Prowler range, The Hobie Adventure, the Viking Predator, The perception Swing, Wilderness Systems Tarpon 100 and the Cobra Pro Explorer to name but a few well known examples. I am currently getting a gimbal mounted into my P15 and am getting a new paddling seat made up which will be both a harness and seat in one.

I like to C&R reasonable size sharks from mine and have lately been viewing my yak as having the potential to be turned into a floating game chair. You can fish light tackle well and it makes no sense to go over the 10kg line class mark as you cannot effectively exert anymore than 3kg of pressure for long periods of time. I just accept the sleigh ride and use my rudder and sometimes a sea anchor to apply sideways pressure. The only issue you will have is when you need to trace or gaff the fish but for this reason I fish wind on leaders and release boat side.

Catch ya Scott
 

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scotty on the line classs to me it all depends on the depth, structure and quality of drag your are using and the quality of rod your are using.

Fishing shallow rocky or kelpy areas - places we fish its up to 30m within 30m of the shore. 10kg main line gets broken every time. sometimes you need to hit the brakes and yes getting a tow happens but 10kg in these circumstances leaves the fish swiming with line trailing around.

if your fishing sandy bottom with a quality drag then no worries on 10kg. shock loading your line (i.e. drags sticking) leads to line breaking and tears :cry: -remember unless your super good at knots typically 40% (minimum) is lost on mono with breaking strain. If your poor at knots you will lose of more than 50% of stated breaking strain.

I have a large range I use for my planned day and take only what I need for the target. Don't go over the top on rating either and if your using anything more than 15kg make sure your drags are top stuff and can rely on. smooth drags = :D . Then set them with scales to hit what you are comfortable with. Start small and then work up to the beasts. and when your really good get your arse over here to NZ to try one of our green torpedoes (kingies) - if your lucky you might get a free ride back home.
just my 5c worth (hang on we don't have 5c anymore here).
regards
 

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JB, I tie plaits with double uni connections to the snap when game fishing. Breaking strain is tested at over 90% of line test on certified line testing machines such as in use for the IGFA. I performed this test on many occasions when I use to club game fish as the game club had one of these machines so we could all test our pre test fell under the line class it was suppose to after spooling up.

Even on a single strand of mono, a well tied improved Albright to a single uni gives over 90%. Again I have tested this a lot. If you are only getting 40-50% of your breaking strain you need to look at your knots you are tying in my opinion.

Catch ya Scott
 

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Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey guys,

thanks for all the input.

I noticed in another thread that someone said the hobie's are more suited for flat water". Am i correct or should i disregard that comment.

I would love to get a hobie adventure or revolution, but no one seems to have taken them out into the ocean or to give direct advice about them

The other kayaks that im considering are Prowler Elite 4.5 & Viking Predator

the elite does seem like a really good yak though, and if i dont get a hobie, im almost certain to get a elite.

Im going for a test paddle on saturday, so will see how we go.

thanks, the info is much appreciated

Regards
JJ
 

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Hi JJ, yes you sure can disregard what you heard re Hobies offshore. Most of the range will handle any conditions offshore that you`d feel comfortable to take them into. The longer ones, like the Adventure and the Quest will give the best speed but the Outback and the new Revolution ( when we get it here ) also give a great account of themselves. Ive had my Outback out in large swells with rotten wind chop on top and it sticks to the water like glue. Good luck in your search. PS find Gatesys recent offshore review on his Adventure for a good read. Steve.
 

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JJ, there is no doubt that the hobies can handle inshore conditions. I've been out there with sbd on his outback in 2.5m seas and he had no problems and plenty of speed. There are also lots of conventional yaks that will fit the bill. The prowler and swing seem to be most favoured for this type of work. BillyBob's reports should convince you of the suitability of the swing and Scott gets into some mean water in his prowler. Don't discount the Tarpon 140 or 160 either.

You have some stringent requirements so it will pay you to think very carefully about layout of the yak and to paddle some in testing conditions.

The other thing to remember is that many of us have developed our ideas since buying a first yak (or rushed headlong into that purchase) and have subsequently bought a second or traded up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, just had a look at the OK P13, Elite 4.5 and fisherman tempo. Going for a test paddle tomorrow.

Then i need to have a test paddle with the adventure, which i would have to go to sydney for, it's the only place i know of that sells the hobies, unless someone knows a shop closer to newcastle.

thanks for the help guys!
 
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