[fisher]

Okay, I admit I'm paranoid. Before I bought my Prowler 15 I read several articles about problems with leaking scuppers and leaky front and centre hatches. I was assured (laughed at actually) when I mentioned my concerns to the retailer I bought my yak off, who basically just told me to not believe everything I read over the internet (derrr!). I was also told to expect some water in the hull, as 'none of these kayaks are water proof'. Trouble is, I don't want a leaky yak.

And - if it is a leaking scupper I want to know sooner rather than later so I can think about warranty claims - crikey, I hope its not a leaking scupper.

So with the first couple of trips in roughish conditions I noticed a couple of cup fulls of water in the hull - nothing too serious, but I went through the process of improving the seal around the front cover. But was it a leaky scupper? - this nagging thought has stayed with me. Anyway the improved seal at the front hatch made a big difference, but still there was some water getting in. - was it a leaky scupper?
So I played around with the centre hatch, but ended up putting a big sponge in there to collect any water that might have been getting in the hull. but I was still taking on some water - was it a leaky scupper?
The thought about leaky scuppers has been driving me nuts - so once and for all I decided I needed to fill the yak with the water. I gotta say, putting the water in the yak is a good idea to see if the scuppers leak - but does anyone have a good idea for getting the water out? :?
To cut a long story short, I am now satisfied that the scuppers don't leak - but whilst eventually getting the water out (and scratching hell out of the yak in the process) I found water gushing out around the factory installed rod holders - this has led me to believe that anything that has been factory installed on my yak has probably not been sealed properly, so that will be my next project.

So I've been able to scratch 'leaky scuppers' off my worry list - now to work on those factory installations.....

As for filling the yak with water (I didn't actually 'fill' it - only enough to convince myself whether the scuppers leak or not) - I do not recommend it - not unless there is an easy way of getting the water out.

 

[Guest]

Hi I had read about leaking problems around the front hatch on the 13 and 15 prior to buying my 13, in rough conditions I noticed a small amount of water in the hull too so I put a piece of EVA foam in the lid of the front hatch but after being rolled a couple of times in the surf and the kayak travelling a fair distance upside down I again found water inside a bit more this time but still only a cup full or so, I wondered the source too until I was messing around with the rod holder on my right and noticed the seal didnt look great, so when I rinsed my kayak at a car wash place i gave the area a blast with the high pressure hose and bingo theres the source. I'm not sure what to do yet as drilling out the rivets and doing it again with a bit of sealent doesnt appeal right now but I think thats what has to happen as trying to seal the gap with the holder in place will be messy and probably ineffectual. Let me know what you do and how it goes

 

[Mad Dog]

Hi Guys

I notice on my P13 that when rinsing the yak, if i fill the rod holders with water it drains straight into the guts, obviously there are drain holes in the holders that need to be blocked in some way, I am also in the process of fixing the rubber gromets that the rudder cable goes through as they keep popping out and are another possible source of water intake

 

[DGax65]

I was told the same thing when I got my first kayak; "there's always going to be some water in your kayak." I can understand getting a little in around the hatch when going out through the surf, but you shouldn't get much inside during the course of routine paddling. The guy that told me that it was normal to get "some" water in my yak was also the guy that did a spectacularly poor job of installing and sealing the center hatch on my OK Drifter. After properly sealing the hatch I found that I could spend several hours on the water and not have any water inside my kayak. I know many people who are willing to accept some leakage; I don't. I just recently bought a Prowler 15' and a Malibu X-Factor and have thoroughly sealed both. The Prowler was stock, with the exception of a rudder kit. I installed all of the rod holders, cable clamps and hardware myself. I used Sikaflex, 3M 5200 or Marine Goop on every single hull penetration and I have a completely watertight yak. The X-Factor already had 4 flush-mount rod holders that I knew would probably leak. I removed the two rear holders, sealed the end caps and re-mounted. Since these holders may be used for trolling rods, I also fabricated aluminum backing plates for additional strength. This may be overkill, but I heard about a guy who hooked up a yellow tail (king fish) on a rod that was left in gear. The result was a lost rod, lost rod holder and a flooded kayak. :shock: Maybe I'm paranoid, or maybe its just my Navy training, but I don't like the idea of taking on water when I'm a couple of miles off shore.
Leak checking your kayak before you take it out on the water is always a good idea. I used a garden hose to fill and leak check my X-Factor after I was finished with all of the equipment installations. After 30 minutes with no noticeable leakage, I drained it using the pump from the bait tank. I used a hand pump when I leak checked my Prowler...that was good for about 30 minutes of aerobic exercise.
The scupper posts are the Achilles Heel of kayaks. I've heard reports of problems, ranging from pinhole leaks to major structural failures in both Ocean Kayak and Malibu products. I've reinforced the seat posts on my X-Factor with a 2-part epoxy and I've coated the scuppers, inside and out, with 3M 5200 marine caulk. It doesn't look very pretty, but I have much more confidence in them now.
Paranoia or good engineering practices? I don't know, but I'm more confident when I venture out offshore.

 

[Dodge]

I'm not sure what to do yet as drilling out the rivets and doing it again with a bit of sealent doesnt appeal right now but I think thats what has to happen as trying to seal the gap with the holder in place will be messy and probably ineffectual. Let me know what you do and how it goes

John

Posted here before is to seal holders in place with a sink plug of suitable size, or a piece of noodle also trimmed to size [like a thick wafer], smear outer edges with silicone and push to bottom, if you can reach the bottom from inside, some silicone in drain and duct tape will also suffice

Upside down in water is not a problem, because there are no holes for air to escape and let water inside the boat

 

[Geejay]

Hi guys,

I bought my dagger ventura (4.5m) kayak on ebay from a hire mob 2nd hand for $500. They were $1350 new. Anyway the fella said it leaked about a litre every time it went out. Fine. When l got it and took it out l found it would actually take on about 8 litres. Still no drama really. An extra 8kgs or so to load slowed me down some, nver felt as though it would sink.

Filling the yak up with water exposed 3 leaking scuppers ( pin size holes only, with little boys spray). To fix the problem l've used cloth tape and that has held for 12mnths of fairly solid use. Thus when l first got the yak l looked at getting it plastic weilded, but are now not going to bother.

l now take on about a litre, more on a rough day when exposing the front hatch to gushers of water. Lucky this yak comes with a plug at the tip of the bow. Good idea with these leaky things :idea:

Cheers,
GJ

 

[simond11]

Hi Fisher
I too have a Prowler 15. Love it!
When I first bought it, the centre hatch leaked a bit. I remedied that problem by removing that hatch and buying a screw-in centre hatch. They come already with a gasket that is perfect for the job. Now there is not a drop of water in it. It is also an idea to make sure the forward hatch is properly fitted before tying the straps on. It has a bit of a habit of shifting slightly when you tighten the straps. Contact your Prowler dealer and they should be able to help you with the hatch. Also make sure you get the little bag that fits inside the centre hatch. Invaluable for all the bits and pieces...and they stay dry!
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15

 

[fisher]

Gday Simon - actually your comments about your P15 was one of the reasons that I ultimately decided to get one - and I love mine too! My centre hatch already is a screw in type but I wonder if it is different to yours? any chance of a photo? I do have the bag as well, but I need a plastic jar inside to make sure nothing gets wet. Its really only frustration factor - I just reckon the yak should stay dry inside! thanks for your comments.

 

[Dodge]

My centre hatch already is a screw in type but I wonder if it is different to yours? .

Screw in hatches a normally all the same mate, and are often set into decks that are awash in bigger boats.
It's strength as a seal, is the O-ring is below the collar top above the threads, and tightened only spreads the neoprene more.
The quarter turn hatches have the O-ring on top of the collar and can move out of their groove.
Screwins are far superior as a seal

 

[fisher]

It's strength as a seal, is the O-ring is below the collar top above the threads

therin lies the problem with mine I think - the factory installed screw in hatch does not have an O ring, nor is there a space for the O ring to sit - ie the thread goes all the way to the top of cap. I have tried putting an O ring on the thread, but then it does not allow the cap to sit flush - and because it sits on the thread I think there is a gap which allows more water in!

Anyway, thanks for your thoughts - I'll keep at it!

 

[simond11]

Hi Fisher
I will take a photo of my screw-in hatch and find a model name and post it here. It needs to have some sort of O-ring, otherwise you will get water in it. If you have problems getting the hatch, let me know and I can get one for you from Sydney. As I said, I have installed this one and it works a dream. I bought it from the agents of Prowler here in Sydney.
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15

 

[Scott]

Simon, I would also be interested in this modification as I still take a small amount of water through my centre hatch. Like fisher I played with custom gaskets and am currently using one cut from 1mm insertion rubber but it isn't perfect.

Catch ya Scott

 

[Dodge]

Just got the newest Whitworths catalog, and had a look at offerings
on this subject, hatches are not worth repairing, but all should have neo ring seal

Depending on brand are called Opening Deck Hatch or Inspection Hatch

White, Black or Clear available prices $13-$25. re size

Any chandler would have them on the shelf, so go to your nearest shop

 

[simond11]

Hi guys
Here is the photo of my hatch. It has the name "Viking" under the lid. It is made in the USA. The hatch comes with gaskets that have peel off backing paper and they stick to the hatch. They also screws that have nylon locking nuts. The system works really for me.
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15

 

[Scott]

Simon, was that hatch compatible with the bag that came with the original hatch or did you need to get another bag to suit the new hatch?

Catch ya Scott

 

[simond11]

Hi Scott
The bag came with the hatch. As I said, it has worked for me fine.
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15

 

[spottymac]

l have used C-DAX 1/4 TURN hatch covers,they are so easy to clip in without cross threading and they have never leak.
A yak shop on the Gold Coast sold them to me but he only has the screw type now
C-DAX is a NEW ZEALAND company[ http://www.cdax.co.nz ] and they make a big range of farm equipment, the hatch covers are used on the spray tanks
One of our NZ members might be able to help out and see who sells them

 

[spottymac]

pics of hatch cover

 

[DogFish]

Try http://www.cdax.co.nz/efx/include/AU/map.asp?country=AU to find local Australian dealers.

DogFish

 

[spottymac]

Thanks Dogfish
l hope they don't what to sell me a 4 wheeler with the hatch