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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"just stick than transducer down with silicone" Easier said then done.
:lol:

Geez I hope mine works, next time when I buy a kayak I will do some forward thinking about how I will outfit the thing.

Spent last night and tonight sticking the transducer in, the sticky stuff is everywhere inside the yak and somehow I did manage to get some near the transducer. How hard is it. The clean look I had it the yak is now gone, goop everywhere.

I am going to be absolutely shell shocked if it don't work. I also think I have added 2 kg to the weight of my yak with all the extra transducer cable :cry:

I have bought a 7.2 amh 12v sealed battery.

My question is, the battery, do I need to secure this inside the yak or is it ok to sit on the bottom of the yak when in use? There is a spot between the rear seat scupper and the underside of the rear well when it can sit upright.

Also can it be layed on it's side or best to be kept upright?

Cheers
 

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Depends on the yak doesn't it. I have mine in an awkwand spot too and had goop all over mine too - don't worry though, where you haven't roughened up the surface (with sandpaper), the stuff just rubs off when set.

With the battery, I've got mine in a padded (cooler type) bag and jammed tight in-hull. Don't like the idea of it banging around - its fairly heavy and has sharp corners. With the sealed battery, I don't think it needs to be kept upright to work properly. Most put it in a container to keep the salt and water off.
 

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Sel my battery is sitting in an open ice cream container on some non slip rubber and is unsecured, most blokes secure them but I haven't worried as I'm unlikely to flip with my use.

Agree re the surplus cable I have a coil zipped to a scupper and a giant strip of duct tape onto bottom of yak.

You can lay your battery over OK if its a sealed one
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi my battery is in a lunch box (hole drilled for cables) with foam wedged in to stop it moving around and the battery is then wedged down one side of the kayak this leaves the middle free for rods. Keeping the battery below deck stops you having to drill another hole this is why I kept it down there.
 

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Hi Mac_fish

I hate to pour cold water on anyones parade, but I think you will find that unless you use the sikaflex, you may be in for a disappointment. I initially tried good grade silicon, and araldite, and they both let go.
In both cases, the surface was well cleaned, with metho, and sanded, but the sikaflex, is the only thing that has worked for me.
Could be you will get lucky, but its a major miff off when the transducer jumps off the goop while you are paddling.
By the way, my sikaflex is black, and does not appear to be causing any upsets. I would have preferred clear, but did not notice, until I was squeezing the stuff out of the tube

Cheers all andybear :lol:
 

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:D I used Selleys all purpose silicone and after I squished it in and placed the transducer on there for a day I then placed a blob of it over the top of the trany from one side to the other kinda like a saddle if ya get my drift.

Hey Andybear I gotta ask :oops: What the f*^# is that on ya head man :? :p

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

:D fishing Russ
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the good news is, it worked.

Reading well, no problems at all.

A question? How fast do you have the scroll speed when fishing from a yak. I know in my stinkboat I have it set fast as possible, same deal with the yak?

Cheers
 

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mac_fish said:
A question? How fast do you have the scroll speed when fishing from a yak. I know in my stinkboat I have it set fast as possible, same deal with the yak?

Cheers
Yes :wink:
 

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You might have trouble with the silicon after a few trips. On my scupper pro the transducer held fine until the warmer weather softened the silicon and the transducer came unstuck during transportation. This time around im looking at using sikaflex to stick a piece of high density foam to the hull that i can slip the transducer into. The main reason im looking at this method is that im hoping to make the sounder portable so that i can also use it in the tinny when i take my son out for a fish.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Shoey

That sounds like a good idea :D

I was at Anaconda on Saturday looking at the Prowler 4.5 elite and they have a spot cut into the underside of the hull where you can just place the transducer, a brilliant idea.

The more I think about it the more I think it can be done when you install a transducer into the bottom of the hull with a shaped piece of foam holding it in place.

Well, mine is in place with silicone now, but it if it falls off I might give it a try. I only bought a multi tool from Bunnings last week with all the attachments. I work in the retail electrical business so I have a copius supply of block foam from all the packing in the whitegoods cartons.

Anyway I just hope the transducer stays put.

Cheers
 

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Hi Russ,
You are not the first to ask what that thing is on my head, and here for all to know, from this day forth,.... it is my favorite stainless steel mixing bowl, just a photo taken of me in a candid ( or is that barely lucid) moment. If you can see any detail on my face, I can assure you that it is a pulled face. My normal face is dull colourless and boring. The bowl is a good jelly mould... and talking of food, I am getting hungry... :shock:

Cheers all Andybear :lol:
 

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Shoey said:
You might have trouble with the silicon after a few trips. On my scupper pro the transducer held fine until the warmer weather softened the silicon and the transducer came unstuck during transportation. .
Keeping the yak outdoors I found that to be the case as well with sun heating the yak bottom up, and have a strip of duct tape over the top of the transducer as well now to see what happens, and also in the shade now; I know araldite also weakens in heat
 

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Again, I would not use any ordinary silicon especially in a viking yak, stick to the sikaflex 241.
As for the face, I was trying to do Spike Milligan, Syd James, and John Cleese, simultaneously. (My face still hurts) :oops:

Cheers all Andybear :lol:
 

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My sikaflex lasted 2 months and then threw in the towel yesterday. I peeled it all off the transducer and sanded the area last night. I used fairly abrasive sandpaper but it certainly didn't mark or even roughen the hull in the Outback :?: I am hoping it did remove whatever invisible film was there (if it was there). Wiped it all down and re-applyed it so it will be interesting to see how long it lasts. Hopefully a long long time. It seemed to give way very gradually. It would still read to 6-7 meters interestingly enough and then failed to read depth. What I didn't do the first time around was clean or sand the surface. Time will tell I guess.
 

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Hi all,

Very interesting to hear about sikaflex failure. I had something similar happen when I rigged a battery holder, (Just a plastic lid of sorts), and the sikaflex on this occasion turned into wet goop. My transducer is still holding on quite well, most definition is good, except I am not seeing fish arches. I guess I am waiting for the thing to fail, and then I will put a box section of plastic in the hull, seal with sikaflex, and just add 100 mils of water each time I use it.

Gotta go, cheers all Andybear :lol:
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The facts, I used dow corning general purpose(cheap stuff from bunnings) and the next day when I applies more to strengthen the meld I changed to selley's allclear.

Still holding on tight, I think the selleys all clear is very tacky and does seem like it would be a very flexible meld, if you know what I mean. :roll:

cheers
 
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