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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased the flush mount rod holder for the new SIK.

I've read all the previous posts on this topic I could find. But I just have a couple of question before I just cutting.

Firstly has anybody used those doorknob hole cutters bits, which attach to your drill to cut the hole? I have heaps of these in various sizes? Can anybody think of a reason why I why I shouldn’t use this? They are after all made to cut holes in things.

Also if I don’t have a bit the right size what is the best method for starting and completing the hole without one? I.e. do I drill a starter hole then just slowly cut with a hacksaw blade?

Also what is the best angle to have you rod holder facing. I was going to set it up the same as my P13 which has the flush mounts facing back but at about 45 deg outwards so your able to troll two lines trolling at the same time and not risk a tangle. Any other suggestion would be welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Greg, I cut mine out with a jigsaw. I started with a small hole drilled that would allow the jigsaw blade to be inserted and away I went. You will find that your hole will need to be slightly oval shaped to allow the angled rod holder to fit. I traced around the rod holder, jigsawed out the circular cutout and just slowly worked away with a file until I got them to slide all the way in.
A bit of sikaflex some 316 grade stainless nuts,bolts and washers and I was in business.

Catch ya Scott
 

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Before cutting yak, use an alcohol-based anesthetic. A glass or two is all you need to drink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Scott. Sounds like the way to go. I dont own a Jigsaw but I can work a blade around it.

Troppo I will be administering alcohol-based aesthetic prior to cutting. I’m very nervous about cutting into a new yak.

The Dagger is a lot thicker than the Prowler.
 

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greg, if you have a hole saw (doorknob cuting tool) they are perfect. Just select the correct size and fire away! This will give you the cleanest cut by far.

With the angled flushmount rodhlders you'll also need to file a small section out of the finished hole to allow the flushmount to sit well, flush...

I have mine at around 45% pointing rearward, so that's perfect.

good luck :shock:
 

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Greg

Agree with all of the above, and one other point.... save your cutout plastic.

Good for repairs if ever required in the future as the colour is a perfect match
 

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I also agree with all of the above, the only thing I have to add is that if you use masking tape to mask around the edge of the flushmount prior to administering the sikaflex, it will save you having to clean off the excess (which will likely ooze out the sides as you tighten the nuts). After tightening the nuts, peel away the masking tape and you should be left with fairly neat edges.
 

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I like the holesaw method and if the pilot drill is long enough you can tilt the holesaw at the same angle of the rod holder and it will cut an oval hole which should require minimal filing for a perfect fit. But the pilot drill must protrude enough past the holesaw to ensure that it will keep the holesaw located whilst cutting. Good luck.
 

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I've read somewhere jigsaws have a habit of getting out of hand. If you're like me with power tools, I'd opt for a saw in hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll post up some photos when completed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I put the rod holder on the Drifter on the weekend. It wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be due to the construction of the Dagger Drifter.

After testing out the position with a mock up rod (i.e. several toilet rolls stuck together and taped to the deck) I decided where the holder should be. This is where I encountered the first problem. The Drifter has a solid foam insert running from the back of the seat down the back of the yak. I guess this is to add some flotation and some strength to the rear of the yak. This caused a problem because the holder intersected the foam when placed in the ideal position. The only solution was to cut the holder down to fit.

I drilled out the hole with a hole saw them used a round rasp to finish off the hole. Cut the holder down to fit. Then bolted it down with stainless bits.

It turned out well. The holder still has enough depth to ensure I won’t loose the rod when I get a big hit.
 

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RP
I looked at the pics before reading as usual and though WT#?, this guys nuts. Looks like you sussed it out pretty good. The colours on your yak are wild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Philip. It turned out ok considering. I would have liked to have the rod holder sealed. But given the position as a SIK it's unlikely to take in much water if any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes I can highly recommend using a hole saw for rod holder installation.

We did have it out on Sunday in the wind and chop. Whilst it wasn’t as sever as the storm which toppled me from my yak in that fateful moment you so kindly mentioned. My mate who was captaining, did get a wet lap from some spray over the front deck.

The rod holder it remained high and dry. If I’m getting water in the rod holder on a SIK I’m already sunk.
 

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Nice work Rawprawn. If I'm reading ya post right, you had to cut some of the bottom of the rod holder off because of the foam. Could you have had it going into the foam at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I could have starting to cutting into the foam but the rod holder was deep enough without having to. The less cutting and chopping the better and I figured I could replace the rod holder easier than I could replace the foam.
 

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Good thinking. Since the rod holder was deeper than needed, sound logic to trim it back before trying more radical surgery.
 
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