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Right lets try again with photos uploaded directly to the forum.
Well, as promised in my introduction here's the next DIY kayak post. :shock:
Firstly the design. I downloaded the Carlson Hull program, which BTW has loads of standard designs and one of which was for a SOT. I modified this to my own requirements to produce a kayak shape that is 4.5 metres long, with a beam of 720 mm. Once I was happy with the design I imported it into the Freeship software package (also freely available on the net). The Freeship package creates the plywood plates and stations required to build the kayak by clicking a button. All of this information was the exported to an AutoCAD file. From this Autocad file I printed out all of the stations and worked out all of the offsets, which were put into an Excel spreadsheet so that all of the plates could be laid out.
I had to know what the kayak was going to look like so I made a 1:10th scale model. See Photo 1.
This gave me a vague idea that the plates and stations from the freeship software was OK and gave me a bit more confidence in what I am building.
I decided to build the kayak out of 3 mm plywood and only needed a total of four sheets. I've bought Lauan ply as it was very light, but seems strong and of fairly good quality, but I guess only time will tell. The kayak will be built using the stitch and glue method with fibreglass tapes on the seams. I will probably end up coating the bottom in fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin for extra strength for a bit more security.
I will be using the HT9000 epoxy resin system and here's the first ever pot mixed up! See Photo 2.
First job was to join four sheets of plywood into two long sheets so the ends of the sheets need planing to give a good scarfed joint when glued with epoxy. Note to self: Don't cut through planer cable again!!!
See Photo 3.
Here's the finished planing not looking too bad. See Photo 4.
And the glued joints. See Photo 5.
Another word of warning here for all potential boat builders. I used cling film food wrap to prevent the plywood sheets sticking to each other or anything else. Don't quite know how this happened but the cling film ended up in the middle of one of the joints (only discovered after 24 hours curing) so the joint had to be recut :evil:
:evil:
. Another valuable lesson learnt.
Next is setting out the plates on the extra long lengths of plywood
Well, as promised in my introduction here's the next DIY kayak post. :shock:
Firstly the design. I downloaded the Carlson Hull program, which BTW has loads of standard designs and one of which was for a SOT. I modified this to my own requirements to produce a kayak shape that is 4.5 metres long, with a beam of 720 mm. Once I was happy with the design I imported it into the Freeship software package (also freely available on the net). The Freeship package creates the plywood plates and stations required to build the kayak by clicking a button. All of this information was the exported to an AutoCAD file. From this Autocad file I printed out all of the stations and worked out all of the offsets, which were put into an Excel spreadsheet so that all of the plates could be laid out.
I had to know what the kayak was going to look like so I made a 1:10th scale model. See Photo 1.
This gave me a vague idea that the plates and stations from the freeship software was OK and gave me a bit more confidence in what I am building.
I decided to build the kayak out of 3 mm plywood and only needed a total of four sheets. I've bought Lauan ply as it was very light, but seems strong and of fairly good quality, but I guess only time will tell. The kayak will be built using the stitch and glue method with fibreglass tapes on the seams. I will probably end up coating the bottom in fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin for extra strength for a bit more security.
I will be using the HT9000 epoxy resin system and here's the first ever pot mixed up! See Photo 2.
First job was to join four sheets of plywood into two long sheets so the ends of the sheets need planing to give a good scarfed joint when glued with epoxy. Note to self: Don't cut through planer cable again!!!
Here's the finished planing not looking too bad. See Photo 4.
And the glued joints. See Photo 5.
Another word of warning here for all potential boat builders. I used cling film food wrap to prevent the plywood sheets sticking to each other or anything else. Don't quite know how this happened but the cling film ended up in the middle of one of the joints (only discovered after 24 hours curing) so the joint had to be recut :evil:
Next is setting out the plates on the extra long lengths of plywood
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