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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just got my sounder now comes the fitting bit, I'll briefly describe what I am planning any criticisms/help on my ideas (not really mine lifted off sticky links) would be appreciated. . I am thinking of mounting the unit itself either in the centre position where the tackle box holder is (first choice as my eyesight isnt great and the unit is easy to reach) or forward of that in the mounting postion that is there, the cables would go through the vertical section of the drink bottle holder above the front lip (I guess that this would reduce the risk of water getting into the hull). The transducer position I am not to sure of but I am thinking on the flat section of the hull near the front two scuppers, I think that I am going to mount using the circle of pvc pipe stuck to the hull with sikaflex and then fill this with petroleum jelly and stick the transducer in that up against the hull. Has anyone used the vaso method does it work is there an easier/better way.
The battery is to be mounted in a cliplock lunch box which is to be fitted into a foam/polystyrene home made box and wedged into centre tunnel section between my legs.
Also when the sounder isnt in use what would you recommend blocking the cable hole with I am hoping that there is a rubber plug that I can have two of one with a hole in (that I can cut) for the cable and one without I know I have seen someting like this but I cant remember where, I think that maybe a boat bung and mount might be the go again one with a hole and one without.
 

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Can't comment specifically on the P13, however some general comments on the Cuda.

Its mounting bracket has a cutout on the bottom at the rear, one on either side, for the cable. I drilled a hole (16mm I think) centred on the mounting plate for the cable and its plug. Pulled the plug through then put a grommet around the cable (plug would not fit through grommet so I cut it so it could be opened and wrapped around the cable). Liberally siliconed the grommet and the cable. I then screwed the mounting bracket above the hole, with the cable passing through one of the cutouts. Again used liberal silicone to provide a second water barrier.

I just siliconed the transducer directly to the hull. I secured the very long length of cable going from the transducer to the sounder by wrapping it around a scupper post and tieing it off. Yak travels upside down on car and there is no issue with the transducer coming free or the spare cable flopping about.

Won't describe my battery setup as I have a leccy and connect to the battery which is above deck. Without the leccy I would look for a solution with the battery below deck.

Of course, my setup is permanent. However it is very easy to use - plug the cable into the sounder and place it on the bracket. Connect the power cables to the battery. No need to go below deck. And no stray holes.
 

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I used selleys marine silicone the first time (corrosion in plug meant I had to replace transducer under warranty) and sikaflex the second. In both cases it held fast.

Note the the silicone can be peeled off the polyethlyene but will hold fast to the transducer.

BTW, to avoid corrosion now I rinse plug after every trip in the salt and spray plug and matching socket on sounder with inox after they are dry. This gives a good seal between the plug and socket, reducing water penetration
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi again Peril, with your transducer did you use the minimum amount necessary to stick your transducer or a big blob so as to assure there was no air between the transducer and hull and did you give the hull a light sand for better sticking or just a good clean. thanks
 

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A big gob of sikaflex to ensure no bubbles. And a good clean and a light sand to get it to stick
 

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I recently mounted my Garmin FF120 to my Hobie Outback Fish and learnt some good lessons.

The first thing I decided to do was to create a hybrid of some different systems to create the ultimate transducer holding beast. I dismissed all thoughts of vaseline and water-in-pipe based transducers. Too messy. I wanted something that was both protected, solid and well and truly stuck in place. I went out and bought a pool noodle and cut an inch and a half of the end. I then placed the transducer on the cut off bit and drew the shape of the transducer on to it. Out with a sharp blade and soon the transducer fit snuggly into the cut out piece of pool noodle. Next I stuck the pool noodle to the bottom of the inside of the hull. I then filled it with Sikaflex and pressed, nay rammed, the transducer into the sikaflex within the cut out pool noodle. Major pressure was applied inorder to get rid of all bubbles. Dried nicely over a week.

Well, I was all set for sea. Off the roof it came and into the water. Result: it didn't work. I had grossy over enginered it. Sought advice from a very helpful chap at Garmin by the name of Ian.

I subsequently pulled it out to discover major air bubbles in the sikaflex where it met the yak hull. Despite the pressure the air had not escaped under the transducer due to the pool ring enclosing it. All sikaflex peeled off (much easier that I was led to believe), another big blob applied directly to the hull and I pushed the transducer down. The bottom of the transducer must be a millimeter or 2 from the hull. It is now firmly in place and works like a dream.

Lesson: simple often works best.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help, I got the sounder fitted over the last few days. I ended up using the front drink holder as the mounting point for the unit, the transducer went in no problems I used a bag of sand to hold it in position while the sikaflex was setting. I was so concerened about getting air bubbles but this wasnt a problem at all. I am still fine tuning the area where the cables come out as the bungs I have modified arent quite right yet but I should have that problem solved tonight, but being able to run without the sounder and with no cables poking out will happen.
I took the kayak out onto the Brisbane River via Breaky Creek and the sounder worked a treat I paddled up to the Gateway and back watching the screen most of the way it was great seeing what was down there (not much), finding drop-offs etc was lots of fun. I am looknig forward to getting out to Margate and finding some rocky bits.
I'll get some pics soon and post in the rigs section.
 

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To cover the cable hole, I used a tenob vent scoop. This is basically a collar for the hold then, a cover that fits flush over the top with a small opening for the cable to come out. I siliconed up the hole to seal it so minimal water should get it. The cover screws down. The eagle mount fits very nicely right over the top of it, so you just seal off the bottom of the eagle mount. The only tricky part is where the cables come out of the bottom of the ff base and trying to seal around the cables.

In hind sight, I probably should have drilled a hole in the mount and routed the cable up through that as it would made it easier to seal the hole thing.

I'm not sure I've got the transducer right yet. I didn't weigh it down, but used a ton of sikaflex as this was my second attempt. I found it much easier to use a caulking gun cartridge rather than than the squeeze tube. I found once the transduce was mounted and squished down, it didn't feel like it was going anywhere. That sikaflex is sticky stuff.

cheers peter.
 
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