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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The PA 14:

OK, after working like a beaver on both steroids and speed, I thought it's time to post up some pics on my "gnaw work" and progress to date.

Basically from bow to stern.

A couple of introductory pics first....

Found a place that sold insulation sheeting - it's Air Cell Insul Break 65 - and it was quite a challenge to put on, but I'm reasonably happy with the result:

The Inner hatch - two skins applied:

The underneath of the front storage tub:

I found using some test pieces first, that the ideal place to "start" the insulation, is the "lip" about 2 cm down from the curve that rests on the weather seal (hope that makes sense).

Also, to keep the tension of the insulation, I cut a slit in the insulation at the top of each section, then stuck the tape to the insulation, threaded it through and pressed that against the surface of the storage tub.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the ice holds up....

I undertook to adopt the "over the side arm approach, using a bit of ally bar, painted. I fitted the same painted ally bar between the 16" geartrac and the mounting boards, with a space as wide as the bar so as to allow the transducer "arm" to slide in and out - easy set up and removal. I destroyed one of my wife's black plastic files to add a double "gasket" layer between the ally bar and the gear track, this allowed easy removal of the transducer arm. The wire between the combo and transducer was held by cable clamps and SS screws at the trailing edge of the transducer bar:

This started life as a Yakatak Black Pack:

I wanted extra tackle storage, an anchor bag and that "Box to Bucket" adapter (more on that later):

Side on view of the "BlackPlack +" :D

(the wood will be replaced with alli bar like on the other side - I'd just run out)

Front view of hooks ready for anchor bag - sits between box and vantage seat:

With the anchor bag in situ:

Now that "Box to Bucket adapter:

Here's a close up:

and with the bucket on and bungy/shock cord stay:

the interior with lid open stay cord from stern:

Underneath - rubber footed spacer bars, allow box to remain on, with cart trolley deployed:


The Trailer:

I debated over a two tier boat trailer vs a rack on top of a trailer. Since we didn't own a trailer, and looking at the costs ($1350 for the trailer and $400 for the bare rack) it made sense to opt for the box trailer with rack option.

Putting some thought into the rack, it had to meet certain criteria.

1) It could be removed for when I want to use the trailer as a trailer.

2) With a PA 14, I wanted easy loading - by way of being able to load it side ways - so the top section had to be removable.

3) It need a lower section which could be used separately when I take my PA 14 out by myself.

4) When the bottom section only was to be used, I need to be able to "seal" the vertical tubing against the elements. Therefore the top section had to slide into the bottom section - so I could fit plastic caps to keep the elements out.

Therefore I had one of my client's (a local large steel and shed fabrication business) build me a free standing rack where the top section (to hold my wife's smaller and lighter PA 12) that could be removed and could just slide in on top of the bottom section (this will soon become clearer) with plastic inserted feet on the bottom.

PIC 1 - The "raw" Yak Rack as delivered:

PIC 2 - How the top section of the Yak Rack slides in:

PIC 3 - Double Layer Primed - Ready for Painting:

With the slider bars, I opted to use high density flat foam, cut to size (the best implement for this is an electric bread knife) and "nestled" level with wood either side - hence the two layers of wood.

PIC 4 - This is a close up of one of four "slider bars" - the notched end fits around the vertical section of the 40mm square tubing and hi density rubber padding sits flush in the middle to sit the yak on:

PIC 5 - Underneath - glued and screwed:

PIC 6 - Central section sprayed with special epoxy glue - very messy stuff to work with - and $46.00 a can!:

PIC 7 - Rubber clamped into position for setting. The large holes are for square U Bolts that will secure the "skid pads" to the end horizontals of the rack and the small pieces of wood are spacers to go between the U Bolt bend and the underneath of the horizontals bars so the ends of the U Bolts and Nilux nuts don't protrude too high.

PIC 8 - Painted and assembled:

PIC 9 - A close up of one of the skid pads :

The lengths of wood in the background are just a bit of insurance - to tape on top of the foam centers during transport up to Mandurah tomorrow morning - me being anal, I just had to have them painted to. :mrgreen:

Next, the Mark II version:

Installed length wise PVC with double strong zip ties were the way to go with high pressure (therefore thick walled PVC) would work for load bearing across the front and rear spans - wanted no more drilling and nothing impeding the slide at the top.

With the internal diameter of the pipe, had to make sure the zip ties could be manipulated easily:

So went for the "legless centerpide" approach :mrgreen:

Mark III:

Next stage...

At 56, 57 soon, and with inevitable back problems, I've created an off (load) system for my wife's PA 12 on the top level of the yak rack (had to replace the top tubing with extended versions to allow the keel space to slide into position:

Next ....

* Rod holders.
* Storage box.
* Painted the horizontal PVC loaders black :mrgreen:

Will post up picks on that soon :D

1 Posts
Nice setup mate!

32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
RekFix said:
you have been a busy beaver!
:lol: - Cheers RekFix - yes, when ever I get my teeth into something I'm totally obsessive - been driving my wife and fellow PA owner nuts. :oops: :roll: :mrgreen:
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