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click on the pictures to enlarge

With a carport having Colorbond sheet roof I had avoided a pulley lift because of the need to instal extra cross beams, however yarning to a builder mate he advised that riveted pulleys and no additional support would be adequate to lift the kayaks.

Got a couple of saddles, pulleys and cleats to tie off the rope at Whitworths on Sat arvo and riveted in position with one pulley each end, and while it worked it was a deal of effort to lift the yak.

Sunday morning I made a couple of extra saddles from aluminium [Whitworths closed] and with the inclusion of a second pulley in the sling [Bunnings cheapy] the lift became a breeze, although webbing slings around the boat had a lot of stretch and the one on the bow kept going towards the narrow end as weight came on to the lift and had to be tied back to stop the slipping.

Into bed to think, and come up with a solution overnight.

The stern end was easy, a board with a couple of bolts through scuppers, and a piece of ply underneath and nuts finger tight to remove the slack; on top of the board some angle aluminium to shackle to the pulley and no longer use a bolt in the shackle [as in the pic]] instead use just a bent 3" nail which is a lot quicker to insert.
Rearpulley(Medium).jpg
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scupper support(Medium).jpg
swing pulleys(Medium).jpg


For the front pulley, made a triangle loop from the wire handle of a bucket and inserted a ratchet strap to hold firm to boat and eliminate stretching, with the pulley connected to the loop by a nut and bolt and have used a fibre tap washer on th wire side to stop the bolt pulling though. To stop the ratchet from sliding to the bow I screwed 2 saddles on the yaks deck to prevent slippage [and can be used on the water for tying off]
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After the kayak is raised I include an extra black webbing sling with a hook at either end as an added precaution.

The unsupported colorbond depresses about 2mm at most under load, and the four 4mm rivets on saddles are doing the job in safety.

Anyone contemplating something similar just get the gal pulleys [$5 ea] they are doing the job as well as the quality pulleys [$13 ea]

All the fittings and 12m of 6mm silver rope added to about $60
 

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Nice solution Dodge.

How do you attach the bits and bobs to the yak?

do you roll it over upside down first, or load it up right way up, pull and get a gravity assist?
 

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That is a very neat system Richo! well done. I will be doing somehting similar when our new place is built, have you timed how long it takes you to load/unload? I ask as the bolts through the scupper holes looks a little tricky?

Ash
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tim said:
How do you attach the bits and bobs to the yak?
Tim

Load onto the back pulley.... nothing is attached below pulley when no kayak loaded...when the yak is on the van roof rack I have 250mm clearance from keel to carport roof, so can easily drop the board with bolts into the scuppers standing on a 3 step ladder...adding the underside ply and nuts takes 30 seconds at most and I tighten finger tight until I can go no further..then shackle to pulley and lift the boat

Load onto bow pulley..... Just insert a bolt between pulley and bent wire on ratchet strap....then lift the boat

timed how long it takes you to load/unload
Ash

I haven't timed it at all but guess 2-4 minutes, either up or down, plus time to tie yak onto car

I only have to lift about 70mm for clearance but with a lower car probably another 400mm
 

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Straight off the car, brilliant!

I don't have that luxury, but you setup is still inspiting, cheers.
 

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Dodge,

Do you think the heat through the roof sheeting will effect the yak in any way?? i know my carport down this way (south coast NSW) gets bloddy hot, could only image its worse up your way?
 

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I did a similar thing in my garage last weekend, however I've designed it to lift my yak up from ground level and have used 2 x double pulley blocks so that in effect I'm only lifting 1/4 of the weight of the yak (30kg).

I tried it with single pulleys and couldn't budge the bloody thing off the ground. Now, it's easy.

I'm just using some thin rope as slings, but will find some seatbelt webbing or straps etc as soon as i can to spread the load across the hull a bit better.

will take some pics and post 'em up shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dale/Biggera Yaker
I'll pass on Narrowneck mate, good luck...I might give the river a go instead after a few chores

Dave/jc32
Thanks mate will make it easier for spur of the moment outings

Grimo82
Up to now the yaks have been outdoors in full sun for over a year up to 40C in summer, and while the carport roof can't be touched by hand in summer, 200mm below it is maybe 15C cooler due to a regular breeze, ........out of curiosity I'll check with a thermometer and get a comparison above and under in coming days

Dave/DaveyG
Yes 2 x double pulleys are good, a mate lifts a 14' quintrex and outboard to his davits that way with relative ease.
On the yak 1 pulley was a gut buster to lift, but on including the second one in the fall of the rope the lift became a breeze, I also have enough rope to reach ground level so I can work on the boat
 

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Nice set up mate.
Don't know whether I would trust the rivets though. Small bolts with large washers might be a better long term solution.

By the way what type of roof is it?....it seems to have an awfully long span without any batons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ar-we-ther-yet said:
Don't know whether I would trust the rivets though. .

By the way what type of roof is it?....it seems to have an awfully long span without any batons.
Paul I took the advice of a retired experienced builder and also confirmed by another mate in construction, there are 8 rivets carrying about 25kgs of kayak so the load is well spread through the saddles, and also the cleats are bolted through the colorbond.

As mentioned the roof is colorbond sheet and only has frame and gutters around the edge, and to this point I had avoided slinging the yak because of the lack of framing, but am happy with the lack of sagging in the sheeting as its been done
 

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I've gone down the road with a pulley system to store my kayak in my garage too - I initially used a front and rear awning pulley, but found that once I got the front of the yak about 3ft off the ground I could manually load the rear into a sling and then do the front the same. I no longer use the rear pulley as it seems to complicate the process.
 

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Hey dodge
You must have very thick roof sheets to span that distance. The standard sheet can only span 900mm.

As for the rivets, the main concern would be if you got the rope snagged or something like that while hoisting the yak up ( putting extra weight on the rivets). If you dont have enough of the rivet through the other side of the roof they could pull through the roof sheet. What size rivets did you use? I would use at least 3/16" or larger (steel rivet), making sure it penetrated past the roof by 4mm.

Also you may have to silicone around the rivets as there not always water proof. You could put a dab of silicone between the fixings and the roof sheet for extra strength.

BTW I'm a plumber (not that that makes me an expert) and just would hate to see the yak come crashing down.
 

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Top job Dodge.
We are looking at replacing our carport roof in next couple of months and hopefully will do something very similar when its complete.
Great concept hoisting Yak straight up off the roof of the car. 8)
 

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Top job Dodge.
We are looking at replacing our carport roof in next couple of months and hopefully will do something very similar when its complete.
Great concept hoisting Yak straight up off the roof of the car. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ar-we-ther-yet said:
You must have very thick roof sheets to span that distance. The standard sheet can only span 900mm.

What size rivets did you use? I would use at least 3/16" or larger (steel rivet), making sure it penetrated past the roof by 4mm.

.
and just would hate to see the yak come crashing down.
Paul
appreciate your interest and concerns so had a look at the roof sheets...the steel is about 20 thou thick, spans 3300mm and sheets are 600mm with 13 W corrugations across that width, think it was rolled on site when built...rivets are 4mm x 9.5mm grip length, so have at least a 9mm mushroom on top
The rear pulley picture shows the carport width....this swing, swings OK

grimo82
did a thermometer test today out of interest....above roof laying on a piece of ply for 30 mins 40C.....under carport on the Swings keel for 30 mins 33C......in house 27C.....in all locations there was a sea breeze and out of the sun felt cool

fisher
my lift from van to storage is only 70mm so I have only one pull on each rope before cleating off....to go to carport floor, would take 2 drops on each rope, one to waist level and cleat off then another drop to the ground level...had only put it off in the past because of structural concerns by not having a beam above...like you I am delighted at the simplicity of the pulley system...have seen half a dozen posted in the past 18 months all variations of the same idea

Tony/Y-not
Already after only playing for a couple of days can see the benefit mate, definitely go for something along those lines, anything to save a lift
 

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Dodge said:
Paul
appreciate your interest and concerns so had a look at the roof sheets...the steel is about 20 thou thick, spans 3300mm and sheets are 600mm with 13 W corrugations across that width, think it was rolled on site when built...rivets are 4mm x 9.5mm grip length, so have at least a 9mm mushroom on top
The rear pulley picture shows the carport width....this swing, swings OK
Dodge that sounds fine and dandy mate.......should never of douted ya. :wink:
 

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Doge great job.

For everyone that has a strong beam.
You could try this.

I use this a lot when the "Load" is not in a spot that can be hauled safely.
The pulley section of the Rig can be moved to a garage wall.
Use 2 Pulleys to lift the Kayak. (One at each end). The rope from there goes to 2 Pullies in the Corner of the roof and the wall in a mid point near the Kayaks. This rope is long enough that when the Kayak is on the ground there is a very small tail at the wall pullies.

These 2 tails are tied to a Pulley.

With a second rope. Set an Anchor and Pulley at ground level at the base of the wall. Thread the "Kayak Pullies to make a 3:1 system. This rope is used to HAUL the whole system. That lifts both ends of the Kayak. At the Same time with the same rate.
No hassels with tie of one end then the other. You can also normaly get a stronger pull when using legs. A whole lot safer too.

I will try and sketch up a wprking model as I do not have need for a pulley system at the moment

Adrian
 
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