I am considering doing a similar build myself,
I was thinking of making a template from cardboard to get the shape of the rear tank well, then laying the fibreglass out on a peice of glass with a releasing agent on it so i can get a perfectly straight and smooth finish.
Then join all of the peices using more fibreglass then coating it with gelcoat, then primer and paint the same colour as the yak.
Ill probably build in some rod holders and other little compartments on it as well, ill post something in DIY section when im done.
In retrospect I would apply vaseline directly to the yak (Instead of plasticene) and lay the glass straight on top. I'd still use sand but would cover it with plastic before I laid on the fiberglass to make the top and lid.
Really basic job and makes the yak a lot more functional.
Since polyester resins adhere to most substances to some extent (with the exception of a few plastics), moulds invariably have to be treated to enable the laminate to be released easily. The treatment usually takes the form of polishing with purpose designed waxes called release agents. Moulds made of polypropylene, polythene or silicone rubber will sometimes be self-releasing, as will those protected by a sheet if polythene or Melinex film.
Im a boat builder and composite technician and there will be no problem laying up straight onto the Yak. First i would give the area 4 coats of TR Regular wax, tape of the area, spray gel coat, layup over the area with no more thab 600g of glass at a time catalysing the resin at no more than 1.5% MEKP this will keep the exotherm low (heat). Do 3 or 4 layups totaling about 2500g. When it has gone off release with timber wedges. Just make sure the area you are laying up has no negitive draws. I am going to do the above to build a custom removable fish box for my Hobie Adventure, I will make it fully insulated by using 10mm divinecell foam in the layup and build a custom hinged top.
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